Category Archives: Electronics

Indesit DI620 Dishwasher Flashing 4 Error PCB Repair C00143206

Indesit_DI620
Indesit DI620

My dishwasher stopped working yesterday. The symptoms were the wash started as normal but then stopped half way through flashing the 4th light. The water wasn’t hot and the soap dispenser hadn’t opened.

Some Googling showed that this is caused by the water not reaching the desired temperature. The dishwasher starts with a 15-20 minute cold wash, then it heats the water and starts the main wash. As the water wasn’t reaching the desired temperature after a certain time it gives up, abandons the wash and flashes the error 4.

There is 3 likely culprits for the water not heating. The heating element, the cut out thermostat and the PCB Timer Module board.

The heating element and thermostat can be accessed by pulling off the black plastic covers on the bottom of the dishwasher. On the right is the heating element connector which can be tested by pulling off the two connectors on the bottom and testing for continuity with a multimeter. Mine was fine showing a few Ohms.

DI620 Thermostat
DI620 Thermostat

To test the thermostat is a bit trickier, it is on the back right side of the dishwasher. You need small arms to get in, disconnect the two connectors then it unscrews. It is supposed to be hand tight but I had to use a spanner to loosen it. Once disconnected test for continuity with a multimeter on the lowest Ohm setting. Mine was fine, to further test it I put it in some boiling water and I heard a audible click after a few seconds, the multimeter then went to 1 showing no continuity. Once it cooled down it went back to reading a few Ohms.

DI620 Timer Module PCB
DI620 Timer Module PCB

This left only the PCB, by reading the white goods forums I had discovered that first of all this dishwasher is a piece of junk and secondly that in this scenario it’s usually the PCB that is broken. Apparently thermostats and old style heating elements rarely break. The bad news is a new PCB Timer Module costs £60-£70!

Someone had mentioned on the forums that they fixed their board by changing a zener diode on the circuit board, unfortunately there was no further details. As it turns out, although I didn’t know it yet, I had exactly the same problem with my PCB. Below is detailed instruction how to test and replace the diode.

On my board there were three visible zener diodes. I decided to test them 1 by 1 with them in the board. To test them properly they should be removed from the circuit, but I was hoping to narrow down the culprit to save me having to remove them all to test.

The broken zener diode
The broken zener diode

In theory there should only be continuity one way on a diode. I tested all three with the black test probe to the line side of the diode, all three had continuity which is correct. I then reversed the test with red to the line side of the diode, two of them reported no continuity, but one of them read about 45 Ohm. I removed the suspect diode and tested it again outside the circuit and confirmed the same readings. This diode was broke.

 

Maplins BZX85C 12V
Maplins BZX85C 12V

On the side of the diode it says C 12 PH. This means it is 12V and Philips. Maplins sell two 12v zener diodes, one is 0.5 watts and the other is 1.3 watts. I went for the higher wattage one BZX85C 12V 1.3W which turned out to be an exact physical size match to the original. After soldering it back in I am happy to say the dishwasher started working perfectly.

The new working zener diode
The new working zener diode

 

 

 

 

 

Parrot CK3100 CK3300 CK3500 DIY Flash Upgrade Programming Cable – TTL Pinout

Ondřej Linhart contacted me after reading my post on creating an upgrade cable for the Parrot CK3000. He has a CK3100 and suspected that it would be possible to create a similar cable for the CK3100 as I had done for the CK3000. This is because the official cable advertised says it works on the Parrot CK3000, CK3000 Evolution, CK3100, CK3300 and CK3500. Below is the combined cable. The small connector on the left is for the CK3000 Evolution, the large connector in the middle is for the CK3100. I don’t know about the rest of the Parrot devices as I do not own them.

Official Parrot Combined Upgrade Cable
Official Combined Upgrade Cable for Parrot CK3000 / CK3000 Evo / CK3100 / CK3300 / CK3500

We had a little discussion over email and a few weeks later I am glad to say he has cracked it and figured out the wiring.

The CK3100 has a different type of connector and different pinouts from the CK3000, but you can still use a USB-TTL device to program it. Ondřej bought this USB-TTL adapter, but pretty much any should do, you can find them on eBay too.

Ondřej also sent me the following images to post here showing the pinout for the CK3100 and also a picture of him using the USB-TTL device

 

Parrot CK3100 TTL Pinout Wiring
CK3100 TTL Pinout

Here is Ondřej using the USB to TTL adapter in his car with a laptop.

Ondřej Linhart programming his Parrot CK3100
Ondřej Linhart programming his Parrot CK3100

Thanks Ondřej for sharing the pinout. If anyone else finds out any pinouts for other Parrot devices please let me know.

CK3000 Evolution DIY Flash Upgrade Programming Cable – TTL Pinout

 Parrot CK3000 Box

 

CK3000 Evolution Release Notes Caption

I recently purchased the CK3000 Evolution car bluetooth hands free kit off eBay for £26, much cheaper than the retail £80. I quickly realised I needed to update the firmware on it as it was quite out of date and the latest 5.25c update from the parrot site fixes issues with Android phones.

CK3000 Evolution Upgrade Cable on Ebay
CK3000 Evolution Upgrade Cable on Ebay

Searching online I could not find the upgrade cable for less than £29. That’s more than I paid for the actual device! Having made my own upgrade\unlock\general hacking cables for devices before I was pretty much certain the upgrade cable would just be a glorified RS232 – TTL converter which I have made in past for free from spare parts. This turned out to be the case.

RS232 To TTL Converter Module on eBay
RS232 To TTL Converter Module on eBay

Making the cables is a bit laborious and I had previously spotted on ebay that you can buy a standard RS232 – TTL converter cable at a silly price. This was the perfect opportunity to give it a go. I bought the cheapest RS232 – TTL Converter on ebay from Hong Kong which only cost £1.79 ($2.91). I could barely post something to another person in the UK for that price, never mind buy the parts! The downside, unfortunately I had to wait 24 days for it to arrive argh!

 

ATX 4 Pin Molex
ATX 4 Pin Molex

As I didn’t know the pinout this was definitely something to be done from the comfort of my own home rather than in the car, so I knew I’d need a 12v power supply. The CK3000 takes its power from a 4 pin square molex connector, exactly the same shape as an ATX motherboard power supply. I had a PC power supply which had died a few months ago so I cut this off and attached it to a 12V DC 3A power supply (the writing on the blue CK3000 control unit says it only requires 300mA so this was more than enough).

Just had a thought… I didn’t check the wiring before I cut it off the PC power supply as I intended to wire it up manually, therefore I don’t know if the parrot and PC PSU 4 pin molex pinout is the same. Make sure you check this if you intend to power it from a PC PSU directly.

With a multimeter it was quickly worked out that pins 2,4,6 are GND; 3,7,10 +12V; 8 +5V. This only left 1,5 & 9 to be either Tx or Rx. The 5v on pin 8 was not enough to power the TTL circuit, I am not sure what it is for. Anyway to cut a long story short here is the pinout below.

CK3000 Evolution Control Box Upgrade Cable Pinout
CK3000 Evolution Control Box Upgrade Cable Pinout

I would be very interested to hear from someone with an official upgrade cable to tell me if that pinout matches theirs. All I know is, this one works…

Previous cables I have made required a 5V Vcc input from the device to power the MAX232/233. Pin 8 on this device didn’t provide enough power for this, but the new TTL Converter I bought took its 5v power supply from a spare USB port. I used the spare Vcc cable to connect pins 9 & 10.

The update process is fairly simple. Connect the TTL device to the blue control box but leave the device unpowered. Load up the Parrot software and wait for it to say XPRAM downloading… Then connect the power and watch it go… I had lots of failed attempts and a few heart stopping moments when I thought I bricked it after it got stuck after wiping the flash.  Thankfully it’s pretty resilient and it still lets you update it in this scenario after restarting the process.

Parrot Software Update Tool

Update: If you own the CK3000, CK3100, CK3300 or CK3500 please see: Parrot CK3100 CK3300 CK3500 DIY Flash Upgrade Programming Cable – TTL Pinout